Hermes’s China Sales Tick Up, But Can the Luxury Brand Outperform Rivals?

Hermes saw 9.6% Q3 sales growth, but shares fell as investors eyed other luxury brands amid China‘s slight improvement.
The storefront of a modern Hermès luxury fashion store in Shanghai, featuring a creative window display with mannequins. The storefront of a modern Hermès luxury fashion store in Shanghai, featuring a creative window display with mannequins.
The store window and brand sign of the French luxury fashion company Hermès in Shanghai. By Robert Way / Shutterstock.com.

Executive Summary

  • Hermes reported a 9.6% increase in third-quarter sales to 3.88 billion euros, driven by a 13.3% rise in leather goods, outperforming many luxury peers.
  • The company noted a “very slight improvement” in demand from the key Chinese market, citing stabilizing real estate prices and positive stock market trends.
  • Hermes shares fell 3% as investors shifted focus to “turnaround stories” at other luxury brands, despite Hermes’s consistent performance and resilience in a challenging market.
  • The Story So Far

  • The global luxury market, heavily reliant on the Chinese market which accounts for approximately a third of global sales, continues to face challenges amid a property crisis and U.S. trade tensions, though there are early signs of stabilization. Despite this downturn, Hermes has historically demonstrated resilience due to its exclusive leather goods and tightly controlled production strategy, outperforming many peers. However, investor sentiment is currently shifting towards “turnaround stories” in other luxury brands, making Hermes’s consistent performance less compelling to some.
  • Why This Matters

  • Hermes’s robust third-quarter sales, driven by strong demand for its exclusive leather goods, underscore its exceptional resilience amidst a broader luxury downturn, suggesting its controlled production and brand power continue to insulate it from market volatility. However, despite these strong fundamentals and cautious signs of stabilization in the crucial Chinese market, investor sentiment is shifting towards “turnaround stories” in other luxury brands, indicating a potential re-evaluation of growth opportunities within the high-end sector. This dynamic suggests that even market leaders may face headwinds in maintaining investor enthusiasm if growth doesn’t significantly outpace expectations, even as the Chinese market’s fragile recovery remains a key determinant for the industry’s future.
  • Who Thinks What?

  • Hermes’s finance chief Eric de Halgouet observed a “very slight improvement” in the Chinese market and reported robust overall sales, particularly in leather goods, highlighting the company’s resilience.
  • Investors reacted by causing Hermes’s shares to fall, as they found the company’s consistent performance less compelling compared to “turnaround stories” at other luxury brands.
  • Analysts noted that Hermes’s growth, while strong, was slightly below expectations, and attributed the share price dip to investors redirecting focus towards other luxury brands.
  • Hermes, the luxury goods maker known for its Birkin bags, reported a 9.6% increase in third-quarter sales, signaling a cautious improvement in demand from the key Chinese market. Despite outperforming many peers, the company’s shares fell 3% in early Paris trading on Wednesday as investors redirected their focus towards other luxury brands. Sales of leather goods, including its iconic handbags, rose 13.3% during the period.

    Chinese Market Outlook

    Finance chief Eric de Halgouet noted a “very slight improvement” in the third quarter for China, citing stabilizing real estate prices in major cities and positive stock market trends. This cautiously optimistic assessment follows similar remarks from luxury rivals LVMH and L’Oreal regarding the Chinese market, which accounts for approximately a third of global luxury sales.

    Performance Details

    For the three months ending September, Hermes’s sales reached 3.88 billion euros ($4.52 billion). This growth, while robust, was slightly below analyst expectations of 10%, according to a Visible Alpha consensus cited by UBS. The company’s prized leather goods segment, which constitutes nearly half of its annual sales, was a strong performer.

    Geographic Trends and Investment

    Beyond China, Hermes observed increased store foot traffic in the United States, with consistent growth across all regions. The company plans to continue its investments in the U.S. market, having recently opened a new store in Nashville.

    Investor Reaction and Industry Context

    The 3% decline in Hermes shares suggests some investors are finding the company’s consistent performance less compelling compared to “turnaround stories” at other players, according to Jeffries analysts. While Hermes briefly surpassed LVMH in market capitalization earlier this year, its shares have seen a 3% dip over the past three months, contrasting with LVMH’s 31% rise and Kering’s 65% increase.

    Hermes has generally navigated the broader luxury downturn more effectively than competitors, largely due to its exclusive leather goods and its strategy of tightly controlled production, maintaining a steady 6-7% increase annually. However, the high-end fashion sector as a whole continues to face challenges in China amidst a property crisis and U.S. trade tensions.

    Summary of Key Takeaways

    Despite a slight miss on analyst growth forecasts and a dip in share price reflecting investor shifts, Hermes’s third-quarter results highlight its resilience in a challenging luxury market, driven by strong demand for its core leather goods and early signs of stabilization in China.

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