The increasing demand for goat meat in Canada reflects a growing culinary trend fueled by immigration. A visit to Al Ferron’s farm in Long Settlement, New Brunswick, reveals the busy lifestyle of a goat farmer during the spring season. As he navigates his barn, the bleating of goats anticipates their feeding, and the young Nigerian Dwarf goat kid weaves around Ferron’s legs, eager for sustenance.
Al and Karen Ferron, both Jamaican-born, have been managing their goat farm for several years. The couple processes numerous orders for goat meat, particularly around Easter, catering to the culinary traditions of African and Caribbean immigrants in Canada. This demand is a direct result of the country’s immigration-fueled population growth, which has left the domestic goat farming industry striving to meet consumer needs. Newcomers from the global south, accustomed to fresh local meat for traditional dishes such as Jamaican curry goat or Kashmiri rogan josh, are often forced to buy frozen imports from New Zealand and Australia.
Ontario’s abattoirs experience high demand, often requiring bookings a year in advance, yet farmers struggle to predict the number of goats ready for processing. In 2021, there were only 253,278 goats on Canadian farms, a stark contrast to the millions of beef cattle and pigs. Despite a significant rise in local goat slaughter rates since 2016, the supply remains insufficient, leading to a doubling of imported goat meat.
The Canadian goat farming industry lacks the marketing influence and support that beef, chicken, and pork industries enjoy. This discrepancy is clear even though goat meat commands premium prices, reaching around $40 per kilogram. Additional support is essential for the local market to expand and compete effectively. The challenges of goat farming, including high disease rates, time-intensive rearing, and processing costs, often deter new farmers, resulting in a high turnover rate within the industry.
Muslim customers frequently request to select goats for slaughter during Eid, but biosecurity measures prevent this at the Ferrons’ farm. Instead, they display the goats for selection. The couple learned the intricacies of goat farming through experience and online resources, as local farmers were hesitant to share their knowledge. They faced hardships, including loss of goats and financial setbacks, but remain committed due to a growing customer base.
To meet demand, the Ferrons aim to expand their herd from 65 to 200 goats by year’s end. However, the endeavor is financially challenging, with thin profit margins due to costs like abattoir fees and feed. The Ferrons sell goat meat from their farm store and deliver to nearby cities. They are raising funds to establish an on-site meat processing facility to cater to cultural and religious needs and reduce costs. Their operation adheres to halal practices, raising animals humanely, which impresses customers.
Despite setbacks, such as a recent failed deal with another farmer, the Ferrons are determined to satisfy their clients. Khaled Al-Hilal, owner of Al-Hilal Meats in Halifax, echoes the challenges of sourcing goats. His shop caters to diverse customer preferences, from apple-sized pieces for rice dishes to whole animals for special occasions. He experiences similar supply difficulties, receiving only a fraction of the desired weekly goat supply.
In Halifax, Ijeoma Eche-Nwosu, originally from Nigeria, often sends her husband to acquire goat meat directly from farms, as mainstream stores seldom stock it. For immigrants like Eche-Nwosu, goat meat is a staple, and its scarcity is a significant concern. Preparing Nigerian dishes often requires improvisation due to inconsistent availability, yet the cultural importance of goat meat remains strong.
The story of goat farming in Canada is one of perseverance and dedication, driven by the cultural and culinary needs of a diverse immigrant population. Both farmers and consumers face challenges in ensuring a steady supply of this prized meat, yet the demand shows no sign of abating.
